Scotland 2005 Journal

OUR WONDERFUL AGM
AND 30TH ANNIVERSARY TRIP TO SCOTLAND
by
Shirley Graham Fraser

Photographs Provided by
Shirley Graham Fraser & Norris Graham
Webmaster's note: Some of the spelling in this article is the English/Canadian spelling

Many thanks to Kate for arranging such an interesting and entertaining trip for 66 clan members and associates. This was my first AGM trip to Scotland and although my family lives in Scotland, I had not ventured any further north than Pitlochry and Killicrankie and I was looking forward to the tour. For those of you who couldn’t attend, I have put together this little daily travelogue, complete with websites, which I hope you will find useful.

Friday, August 5, 2005

Since I was already in St. Andrews when the clan Graham group flew into Edinburgh, I took the bus to Dundee and from there took a cab to ‘Mains Castle’, where I arrived just as the members of our group were getting off their buses.

The group was divided and assigned to one of two buses, differentiated by a gold ‘Clan Graham’ sign and a black ‘Clan Graham sign. Our guide was James Dunbar and our coach drivers were Neil Porteous on the gold bus and George Henratty on the black bus. I was assigned to the ‘gold’ bus and it was here that I discovered that my roommate, Helen Eisenhower, as well as Linda and Scott Graham (all from California), had not arrived as scheduled because their plane had lost power to an engine. They had to return to LAX and fly out the next day. I guess that was a scary experience, landing at LAX with fire trucks and emergency vehicles screaming down the runway beside you!

Mains Castle, when owned by the Grahams, was called ‘Mains of Fintry’ because the owners were a cadet family of the Grahams of Fintry in Stirlingshire.

This was the first of many castles on our tour that had some significance to the Clan Graham

Mains Castle is now a restaurant and bar that caters to weddings and meetings. The dining room was set up for us in Main’s Castle and we had a delicious chicken lunch. The owner gave an historical overview of the castle and it’s previous owners after which we toured the Graham room and the graveyard outside, looking for the tombstones of Grahams.

After lunch, we were driven to the town of Montrose where we checked into the Park Hotel and found the staff to be very friendly and accommodating. (Town of Montrose) http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/areamont/

Upon arrival, each member of our group received a personal invitation to attend the wreath laying ceremony that was to be held that evening. Following dinner at the hotel, we walked up town to attend the ceremony, which began at 6:30 p.m. Robena Addison, of Montrose, was the organizer of all the events we attended and she did an admirable job! We met at the statue of James Graham, 1^st Marquis of Montrose, which was erected and dedicated in the year 2000. Members of Clan Graham, North America, were also present for that event.
www.montrose-society.org.uk

There was an international flavour to the events in Montrose, as the town was also hosting their guests from the town of Luzarches, France to which they are twinned. Luzarches was represented by the French organization Ginettes Merseant, whose President is Vivianne Jardin. All speeches and comments were in English and French and were translated by Richard Lees. Richard Graham laid a wreath on the monument and quoted James Graham, the 1^st Marquis of Montrose, known by historians as “The Great Marquis’. Robena then told the history of James Graham of Montrose. The statue is positioned in front of a house in which, it is believed, James Graham was born.

When the ceremonies at the statue ended, pipers, drummers and young highland dancers led us down George Street to the Town Hall for a reception. The young dancers formed a guard of honour for the dignitaries and guests to enter the Town Hall. After the formalities of speeches and presentations, the highland dancers entertained us as we enjoyed wine and appetizers, while mingling with the other guests.

Saturday August 6/05

They were dressed in the appropriate costumes of their era and represented Lord Randolph and Lady Isobel Buchanan.

The Declaration of Arbroath, one of Scotland’s most significant documents, was signed in Arbroath and contained the signatures of three Grahams, John Graham, David Graham and Patrick Graham. The Interpretative Centre is very interesting and as one group viewed the Abbey from the outside the other group toured the Centre. Our large numbers often necessitated that we be divided into two groups. The tour guide gave a brief history of Sir David Graham of Kincardine and Old Montrose. The guide read the following about Sir David Graham;

Sir David was imprisoned by Edward 1^st in England in 1296 but was released in 1297 on the condition that he serve Edward in foreign wars. The Scots led by the Guardians John “the Red” Comyn and Robert the Bruce conducted an aborted attack on Roxburgh Castle in July 1299. At a council, after the attack, Sir David Graham demanded the lands and goods of Sir William Wallace because Wallace had left the kingdom without the approval of the guardians. Sir Malcolm Wallace defended his brother and each drew their daggers. Since Graham was a follower of Comyn, the outbreak of the fight was reported to Comyn, who leapt at Robert the Bruce and seized him by the throat. The Earl of Buchan claimed ‘lese majeste’ was being plotted and turned on the Bishop of St. Andrews. Seamus Stewart, the 5^th High Steward and others came between the opposing parties.

In 1320, Sir David Graham signed the “Declaration of Arbroath”, asserting Scotland’s independence. He received several grants from King Robert the Bruce in recognition for services. In 1325, he exchanged Cardross, Dumbartonshire with the King for Old Montrose, Forfarshire.

The guide then recited the most famous quote from the “Declaration of Arbroath”

When our tour of Arbroath Abbey was finished a local newspaper photographer photographed a large group of the Grahams and the article and photo appeared in the local paper on Monday.

This stop at Arbroath reminded me that I have two copies of the Declaration of Arbroath at home and I will definitely have them framed when I return.

We saw beautiful scenery on our bus ride to Dundee, as the sea was on one side and the hills on the other. We stopped at the harbour where the Royal research ship ‘Discovery’ was moored. Helen Eisenhower and Scott & Linda Graham arrived from Edinburgh, so now our group was complete. http://www.rampantscotland.com/visit/blvisitdiscovery.htm

We had lunch here before moving on to Dudhope Castle. This is one of Dundee’s oldest buildings. In 1683, John Graham of Claverhouse, ‘Bonnie Dundee’, the Jacobite commander who died at the Battle of Killiecrankie, acquired both the castle and the office of Hereditary Constable. It has recently been refurbished to become the Dundee Business School of the University of Abertay.

Back to the hotel to get ready for the dinner and Highland Ball which was sponsored by the town of Montrose. The dignitaries from the previous day, the French visitors from Luzarche, the Clan Graham and the people who were hosts of the visitors from France were all present for this celebration. Speeches and presentations were in French and English and Kate and Richard received a framed picture of the Marquis of Montrose. Wonderful hospitality, good food and we had lots of fun learning the Scottish Country Dances.

The Grahams walked from the hotel to Old Montrose and St. Andrews Parish Presbyterian Church for the morning service. You can see a picture of this church on the website for Montrose. We met Bill Walker outside the church where he welcomed us and gave out small corsages of white and purple heather to the wives of the Chief, honoured guests and the Standard bearers, who were; Donald Graham, Robert Graham, Jim Nethery, Norris Graham and Jack Graham. These flags were positioned at the front of the church. We were ushered into the church and special guests were; Lord Donald Graham, Lady Graham and their three children; Clan Graham, North America; the French group from Luzarches, France and an Ozzy Osbourne look-alike, who marched with us to the church..

The Order of Service was conducted in French and English with the Minister, Rev. Laurence Whitley doing the translating. Lord Graham read the passage from Luke 6, paragraph 7, the ‘Faith of a Soldier was read in French and Richard Graham led us in prayer.

From the church, the Clan Graham members marched through the streets with the other distinguished guests and were joined by the town’s folk at the site where the Highland Games were being held. Lord Graham opened the ceremonies and the Ozzy Osbourne look-alike crowned the Rose Queen, Kirsty Bell. I couldn’t figure out the importance of the look-alike until I read in the local paper that it is a tradition that the games committee secures a guest appearance of a showbiz look-alike and this year, it was the Prince of Darkness impersonator Daithi who was the showbiz choice. Lunch was provided for us in a very large tent on the grounds and everyone was chatting and introducing themselves to the Grahams they hadn’t met. We had lots of time to check out the merchandise at the tents.

At the hotel, after dinner, a birthday cake for five of our group, who all had birthdays since our arrival, was brought into the dining room with candles burning. To a loud rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’ the five were recognized. The five were; Henry Graham, (Georgia) Tom Graham (Tennessee), Doris Terry (Georgia) Kaylie Cernin. (California) and Deborah Graham (California).

Monday, August 8, 2005

Suitcases down by 6:45 and then breakfast before leaving. Robena came to see us off and brought newspapers that contained the picture and the write-up of our trip to Arbroath Abbey. Thanks to Robena, our experience in Montrose was the epitome of Scottish hospitality. It was a beautiful morning and everyone was in high spirits and ready to move on. Jim Nethery’s new cashmere sweater was a big hit as all the women were invited to feel it, much to Joyce’s amusement.

After a coffee and shortbread break, we were split into groups and taken on a tour of the castle. Following the tour, we heard a lecture on the Scottish Civil War and James Graham of Montrose, in particular. It was presented by Dale Harg of the ‘Sealed Knot Society’, which was a Royalist secret society in the 1640’s-1650’s, the period of Civil war. The Royalist Society was plotting to put Charles the Second on the throne and depose Cromwell. Cromwell’s secretary was a spy who infiltrated the ‘Sealed Knot Society’ and he would report to Cromwell when the Society had planned a coup and Cromwell would move regiments into the area to prevent the act from taking place. Cromwell did not shut down the Society but kept the spy in the group to report any insurgencies. After Cromwell died, Charles the 2nd became king. www.sealedknot.org

A personal note: The surname Harg was interesting as some of the past Grahams changed their name to Maharg, which is Graham spelled backwards. Is Harg a variation of Maharg?

The Covenant was an agreement signed by a majority of the people in Scotland to protect their own religious freedom. James Graham was the first nobleman to sign the covenant but he then went on to leave the Covenanters and support the King when he realized the intent of some was to depose the King.

Only a drummer could cross the line to the enemy and any negotiator had to have a drummer with him. The Sack of Aberdeen was retaliation by James Graham because his drummer boy had been killed, which was contrary to the rules of battle. The drummer had a protected status and was not to be a target of the enemy.

Shirley Fraser has received this email from Brian Robertson, of the 1st Marquis of Montrose Society, concerning a statement she made about Montrose, that she had obtained from an interpreter at one of the castles. Shirley is grateful that this error was pointed out and wishes the members to read the real facts about this incident.

"If you will forgive me, I will draw your attention to a sentence on page 8, (of the Clan Graham News) which mentions that 'The sack of Aberdeen was retaliation by James Graham because his drummer boy had been killed." Whilst I appreciate that there is naturally no malice intended in the statement, the implication of it is that James Graham ordered the sack of Aberdeen and this is not the case. James Graham issued no such order, but the drummer boy was killed in full view of the Highlanders and the Irish, and no power on earth was going to stop them from sacking the city, once they had won the battle.

Montrose regretted this act until his dying day but, as commander-in-chief, he did accept responsibility for it. It was the only blemish on the career of an extremely honourable man. There are many instances, during the troubles, when Montrose took action to save the lives of those whom he had defeated, but there are people even today, who accuse Montrose of the sack of Aberdeen and, whenever I can, I am always quick to spring to his defence."

We arrived in our hotel in Fort William and were glad to finally stop, as it had been a long day. Our group had dinner in a special dining room and a gentleman, who accompanied himself on a keyboard, provided us with singing entertainment during dinner. Henry and Richard got up and each sang a song; Henry singing ‘Danny Boy’ and Richard singing ‘Bonnie Dundee’. While all this was going on, Jim Nethery was balancing a spoon on his nose!

Tuesday, August 9, 2005

We had a 9:00 a.m. departure and drove a short distance to Inverlochy Castle, where we walked up to the top of a hill to get an overview of the area in which the great Battle of Inverlochy took place when Montrose led his army to victory over Argyle’s army of Campbells. Jimmy Graham Jardine gave us the history of the battle and James Smith gave us each a shot of whiskey so that we could toast James Graham of Montrose. Jimmy taught us the Gaelic toast, is tus an duinne (pronounced, iss toos un doonya) which loosely translated means “You’re the man!” What an invigorating way to start the day!! The whiskey was a special edition and had the picture of James Graham of Montrose on the label. Jimmy had no trouble selling the bottles we didn’t drink.

Another ‘rest stop’ and then on to Glencoe for a photo op. This is where we saw the West Highland Way, a walking trail that starts in Milngavie and ends in Fort William. It is a favourite hiking path and people may enter it at various places along its 95-mile length.

We saw a ‘cairn’ and Loch Tulloch. We stopped for lunch in Tyndrum and then moved on to Loch Lomond for another Photo op.

We finished our day the way we started………by drinking a tot or two of whiskey! The Glencoyne Distillery (between Milngavie and Strathblane) was our last stop and we learned how to make whiskey and toured the plant. We were taught the Gaelic toast, Slainte mhath, pronounced ‘slange avah’, which translates to ‘Good Health’.

We arrived at the Millennium Hotel on George Square in Glasgow and we were tired after our long day, but it didn’t dampen our spirits for dinner, as there was lots of chatter and laughter in the dining room.
http://www.glasgowguide.co.uk

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

Christine, Richard’s sister from England, joined us in Glasgow and at 9:45 we were off, in our buses, to Gartmore House. Gartmore House once belonged to Robert Bontine Cunningham Graham, fondly known as Don Roberto. He was a descendant of the Earls of Menteith. Before going to Gartmore House we stopped at a monument dedicated to Robert Graham. In this little village, we were introduced to a gentleman who had written a book and made a tape and CD. I bought them, thinking I would have lots of information on ‘Don Roberto’, but the contents were mainly songs of the Trossachs and a small page on ‘Don Roberto’.

We continued our drive through the ‘Duke’s Pass’ towards Aberfoyle. The bus stopped for a ‘photo-op’ of Loch Drunkie, which we couldn’t see, so we took many pictures of the Trossachs. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs is where the Highlands meet the Lowlands. There were panoramic views in every direction! Our group then descended on the town of Callender for lunch and some shopping before heading to Stirling Castle.

Following our tour of Stirling Castle, The Provost of Stirling, Colin O’Brien, hosted us at a Civic reception in the Guildhall. We were welcomed and given tea and cakes. The nearby Church of the Holy Rude was, in 1567, the site of the coronation of young King James VI, son of Mary Queen of Scots. John Knox preached the coronation ceremony. King James VI succeeded Queen Elizabeth and also became King James 1st of England.

A 55-minute bus ride to Ayrshire and the ferry at Androssan, where we sailed to the Isle of Arran. Bill and Sheila Richardson joined us for the trip and we had a picture taken of our Ontario group before boarding the ferry. We docked in Brodick and went for a tour of Brodick Castle and the grounds. They had a tearoom in the Castle and hot soup and sandwiches provided a good lunch for Nancy Graham and I, who had both developed colds and were feeling the dampness in the air.

Bill & Sheila Richardson, Shirley, Kathleen and Royce Graham, Nancy & Don Graham

After shopping in the gift shop, our afternoon was spent touring the Northern part of the island and unfortunately, we could not get to the ‘Standing Stones’ at Machrie Moor, but I was able to buy a postcard of them. We ended our day on Arran with the most delicious meal at the Brodick Brasserie. We were a tired group that returned to Glasgow that night.

We drove from the hotel to Buchanan Castle, where the Duke of Montrose, who was introduced to the group by Richard, met us. A short receiving line allowed us to meet the Duke, Duchess and their son, Lord Ronald.

Dale Hinchey, Manager of the Graham Highlanders of St. Johns Academy, St. Johnsbury, Vermont, presented a framed letter from Thomas Lovett, headmaster of St Johnsbury Academy. Richard and Kate presented a ‘Piper’s Banner’ to the Duke and helped him attach it to the pipes of Derrick Davidson, of the Graham Highlanders of St. Johnsbury Academy. Derrick was the Duke’s personal piper for the occasion. Dorothy Harrington, of Roswell, Georgia, presented 3 books to the Duke for his library. These books chronicle the life of Dorothy’s direct ancestor, who was a pioneer in Canada.

Derrick piped the group to the Buchanan Golf Club, where we enjoyed drinks and visiting before our AGM luncheon. The Duke opened the ceremonies by telling us about the MacGregors and their association with the Grahams. For further information, he also recommended a new book, “The Hunt for Rob Roy” by David Stevenson. The Duke gave Nellie Lowry the notes from his presentation so I expect we will see it published in the Clan Graham News.

Edwin Graham said Grace and Richard presided over the meeting, while Helen Eisenhower was acting Secretary. .

After lunch, people socialized and had an opportunity to have their pictures taken with the Duke and Duchess, who were very friendly and obliging.

We returned to the hotel for free time and dinner before our Mugdock Auction. Norris Graham and Jim Nethery were the auctioneers and kept everyone laughing and amused while they encouraged the bidding for the donated articles. The ‘Jimmy’ brothers made an appearance and dragged Kate up to join them. Kate was also required to wear the ‘Jimmy’ tam with the flaming red hair. Some of the articles were not auctioned and were kept for the ‘Silent Auction’ to be held the evening ceilidh at the town of Milngavie the following night.

In the morning, we boarded our buses to Mugdock Castle for the official opening. The Duke of Montrose and his wife the Duchess were present for the ceremonies, as were the following dignitaries.

The MC was Eric Gotte as the dignitaries stood at the entrance to the castle and the Standard Bearers, Bill Richardson, Scott Graham, Jack Graham, Norris Graham and Robert Graham stood on the steps leading up to Mugdock Castle.

During the opening speeches, Richard made specific mention of Bette Staley, who was a staunch supporter of the restoration of Mugdock. Bette had passed away the week before the trip. She had preceded her brother Bill as Commissioner in Ontario, Canada. He also remembered another member, Virgil Graham, who had also passed away.

After the speeches, ten people at a time, we were allowed to tour the castle. It is a square turret and the narrow stone steps, inside the building, wind up the outside wall. It was too narrow to allow up and down traffic, so anyone half way up had to retreat to let the ‘downward bound’ out of the castle. We were all anxious to try out Jim Nethery’s computer program in the Graham Room, and it was a big success. Congratulations Jim on the fine work!!

The Country Park provided us with a BBQ luncheon before going back to our buses to return to the hotel. Change for the evening dinner and ceilidh in the town of Milngavie,(pronounced Milguy) which was also arranged by the Country Park, Mugdock, who were our guests that evening. Our thanks to Iain Arnott and Liz Ferguson for all their hard work on behalf of the Clan Graham, making sure that we all had a great experience and a good time.

The Duke and Duchess were also in attendance and we had a sumptuous meal, starting with Haggis, Neeps and Tattie Stack. This ‘starter’ was enough for a meal in itself! Sirloin of Highland Beef with potatoes and vegetables and Raspberry Crème Fresh tart with Mascarpone, Tea and Coffee and of course, wine with dinner. Alex Graham & Family, just to keep everything in the family, catered the meal.

Before and during dinner, items were placed on the stage for the ‘Silent Auction’. Norris Graham dedicated the Silent Auction to Bette Staley as she and her husband had always been very active in the AGM auctions. Bob Staley was usually the auctioneer and Betty was a ‘sister’ to the ‘Jimmy” brothers as she put on her bath robe and donned her ‘Jimmy’ tam with the red hair sticking out in all directions. The many Clan members whose lives she touched will miss her, not only in Ontario, but also in the United States.

The Milngavie Pipe Band, under the direction of Pipe Major Donald MacKenzie, entertained us and we were very appreciative, especially after learning that these men had competed all day and then came to entertain the Grahams in the evening. A lone piper, whose name I did not get, played some amazing pieces on his bagpipes and when he was finished, the Drum Major said,” Not bad for a fourteen year old!’ He was a tall, brawny lad and his appearance and his expertise on the pipes certainly made him seem older than his years.

Members of the Royal Country Dance Society demonstrated ‘Country Dancing’ and then invited members of the audience to join them. Great fun and lots of laughs as we bounced around doing dances we did not know. In fact, we decided that if they had let us continue for another 15 minutes, we would have mastered the steps.

We left Christine behind as we said goodbye to Glasgow and boarded our buses for Edinburgh. It seemed like a quick ride to the city and the buses parked on a main street so that we could easily walk to the High Kirk of St. Giles. Henry Graham, from Georgia, was no sooner off the bus, when tourists asked him if they could have their pictures taken with him. He was certainly a hit with the tourists in Edinburgh and Henry seemed to be enjoying his new found fame.

Our group walked to St. Giles’ Cathedral for the Service opening the 59^th Edinburgh International Festival. Dignitaries too numerous to mention were in attendance and some participated in the service. The church was full and the choir was stellar. We all have our ‘order of service’ booklets, which we will be able to keep as a memento of the occasion.

After the service, Brian Robertson, Secretary of the Marquis of Montrose Society, talked to us about the Marquis of Montrose and we were able to see and take photos of the Montrose Memorial. He also gave me a copy of a paper he had written, entitled “The Bravest of Hearts”. The subject was the fascinating story of Montrose’s heart, which had been secretly removed from his body. This was followed by a timeline listing the owners of the heart. If anyone wishes a copy of this paper, I can email or snail mail one to you.

Free time for lunch so Jack Graham, his wife Cathy and I, headed for Deacon
Brodies for a ‘fish and chips’ lunch. We were glad that we left when we did, as we were lucky enough to get seats quickly and had time to spare for shopping. The streets were loaded with tourists, bands and musicians and it really was a festival atmosphere.

Monday, August 15, 2005

Because of a change in our schedule, we had the whole day free, so Helen and I joined Jim and Joyce Nethery and took a cab to Rosslyn Chapel. Since the book “The Da Vinci Code” was published, the Chapel has been inundated with tourists. The guide explained that they had to give shortened versions of their original tour since they had so many people waiting for each session. There was a small gift shop but the number of people in the shop was overwhelming and I could hardly wait to get outside.
http://www.rosslynchapel.org.uk/

We decided to have a pub lunch and take the bus back into Edinburgh. We had a good walk back to the hotel after returning to Edinburgh and some of it in the rain. We were all hoping the rain wouldn’t last as we were attending the “Tattoo” after dinner but we all bought plastic ponchos, just in case. Another pub lunch at the “Haymarket” and then back to the hotel to get ready for the Tattoo.

The walk up the hill was worth it! The Tattoo was spectacular and, from experience, you think that what you just saw was the best…………until you see the next one.

Lots of Grahams, that evening, in the bar and the lobby, saying goodbye to old and new friends, as the bus would leave very early in the morning to take most of the people back to the airport in Edinburgh.

Tuesday, August 16, 2005

There were a few of our original group who were not taking the flight out of Edinburgh so we waited in the lobby for our connections to other places. In my case, my cousin Alan was picking me up and taking me to St. Andrews to stay with my cousin Kathleen. I couldn’t believe our tour was over. I had seen places I’d only read about and learned things I didn’t know, but the best part was getting to meet all the other Grahams who were on the trip. I know I’ve made lasting friends and would recommend that everyone go on an AGM trip, whether it is in Scotland or North America.